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Gone organic

An annual conference draws a crowd to Backcountry Winery near Stratford

More than 70 farmers and vendors gathered om December 9 for the annual conference of the Iowa Organic Association at Backcountry Winery near Stratford. The group will mark its 20th year in 2026 serving the needs of organic farmers in Iowa.

STRATFORD — Trying times in agriculture can still add up to a positive outlook for the long-term future.

That was just one of the messages to come out of the Iowa Organic Association’s — IOC — annual meeting held December 9 at the Backcountry Winery east of Stratford.

“There is good happening,” said Kristy Kasper, administrative coordinator for the coalition of organic farmers. “To let people know that, and to be a part of it is just amazing.”

The IOC will mark its 20th anniversary in 2026, an important milestone as interest in going organic continues to gain interest.

“I was really pleased with the turn-out,” Kasper noted — especially on a day when white-out conditions were forecasted for the drive home for the more than 70 farmers and business representatives who gathered for the full day of presentations.

From Soil to Stream: Growing Organics, Protecting Iowa’s Water was the theme for the annual meeting this year.

Kamyar Enshayan, former director of the University of Northern Iowa’s Center for Energy & Environmental Education, was one of several speakers who led discussion groups throughout the day.

“He has so much knowledge and he just broke it down to be digestible for the common person,” Kasper said.

Enshayan has long been an advocate of organic agriculture and choosing local foods as a way to protect the environment, encourage diversity, and support small farmers. He founded UNI’s Local Food Program in 1997 and was the recipient of the 2008 Sustainable Agriculture Achievement Award from Practical Farmers of Iowa.

Other speakers included: Dr. Sabrina Ruis, from the United States Department of Agriculture National Lab for Agriculture and the Environment; Dr. Margaret Smith, a farmer and agronomist from the Hampton area; Aaron Lehman, president of the Iowa Farmer’s Union board; and farmers Aidan Struve and Amber and Preston Gable.

While the speakers were a main attraction, Kasper said just getting a broad range of organic farmers and business representatives in the same room has value.

“It always helps to share your success stories — and your challenges,” Kasper said. “The networking with other farmers is something people really enjoy.”

In many ways, sharing the challenges, and the ways in which other farmers met those challenges, can be one of the most inspiring aspects of the annual event.

A broad range of farmers are members of the IOC, producing everything from row crops, small grains, livestock, produce, and much more, according to Kasper. In addition to the farmer members, the IOC in recent years has added a small trade show to the annual meeting.

“This year we had 11 vendors attend and we were excited about that,” she said. “It’s a good opportunity for them to get in front of the farmers and for farmers to learn about these organizations and businesses.”

Vendors included an organic feed mill, crop insurance representatives, Practical Farmers of Iowa, and a number of other organizations that support the organic movement in Iowa, according to Kasper.

One feature that is always a highlight is the organic meal, this year served by Chef Andrew Hoffmann of Hoffman of Hoffmann Farm and Forage. A professionally-trained chef and licensed forager, Hoffmann operates a diverse farm near Story City. He is known for producing sumptuous meals from locally-grown organic foods.

The menu for the evening featured garlic and herb meatballs made with a blend of beef and pork with wild mushroom gravy, maple- and miso-glazed squash with fried sage and pickled apples, including roasted potatoes, lettuce still garden fresh in December, a carrot cake dessert and, of course, red wine from Backcountry Winery — all organic from the top of the menu to the bottom.

While the sweet aromas from the meal wafted through the winery, the message was clear that there is a future for organic, locally grown food in Iowa. Helping farmers learn more about the transition is a goal of the IOC’s TOPP program, or Transitioning to Organic Partnership Program. IOC offers a technical assistance program, mentoring programs and serves as an information resource.

The mentoring program pairs up new farmers with those who have experience in the organic field, according to Kasper. It’s a willing partnership to share information and grow the organic movement.

“The people who are good at it always want to spread the word and get more organic farmers started,” she said.

To learn more about the Iowa Organic Association, visit the group’s website at iowaorganic.org.

Kristi Kasper of the Iowa Organic Association and Drew Erickson of the Rodedale Institute chat during a break at the association’s annual meeting. The conference drew a crowd of farmers interested in learning more about going organic.

Chef Andrew Hoffmann peaks the appetites of those gathered for the IOC meeting.

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